I found this pattern online a while ago, but had trouble trying it out because there were a few mistakes in the pattern. So I figured I would rewrite and post it on here.
I used cotton yarn for this because I like how it absorbs water and it seems to hold up better to all of the scrubbing and washing. I got about 2 and a half wash cloths out of a 2oz ball of "Peaches and Cream" cotton yarn.
I used a size G hook and gauge doesn't matter.
chain 30, sc in 4th chain from hook, (ch1, skip next chain, sc in next chain) repeat across.
ch3, turn, skip first sc, sc in space between sc, (ch1, skip next sc, sc in space between sc) repeat across.
(the last space on the row may be hard to find because it is the tiny gap in 3chs you skipped in the first row.)
repeat the second row until you achieve the right length, then tie off or edge anyway you like.
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Friday, October 28, 2011
Update
Ok, So I haven't posted in a while because I don't have any new patterns. But I think I'm going to just start posting my projects as well so everyone can see them :)
Since my last post I have been working on making Christmas gifts for family members, I made a shrug for a wedding we went to (managed to shrink the sweater I wanted to wear in the wash), I have started an afghan for my godson's birthday, and just started working on a new winter hat for myself today. I left town for the weekend without a winter hat or sweatshirt, but luckily the yarn for the afghan matches my new winter jacket. Easy solution. I probably won't be on a computer again until Sunday night, but I will try to remember to take pictures as I go and post them ASAP.
Since my last post I have been working on making Christmas gifts for family members, I made a shrug for a wedding we went to (managed to shrink the sweater I wanted to wear in the wash), I have started an afghan for my godson's birthday, and just started working on a new winter hat for myself today. I left town for the weekend without a winter hat or sweatshirt, but luckily the yarn for the afghan matches my new winter jacket. Easy solution. I probably won't be on a computer again until Sunday night, but I will try to remember to take pictures as I go and post them ASAP.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Granny Square Crochet Hot Pad
Definitely use cotton yarn for this project, acrylic will melt as soon as you put a scorching hot pan on it.
Ch 5, sl st to form ring
I used a size G hook, but gauge and hook size really aren't very important with this project. It's a Hot Pad, who cares if it is a little bigger or smaller than the one I made.
Granny Square Pattern (Make 2)
The Granny Square pattern can also be used to make blankets, scarves or just about anything that a person can make out of blocks. I love using it for blankets.
The Granny Square pattern can also be used to make blankets, scarves or just about anything that a person can make out of blocks. I love using it for blankets.
Row 1. Ch3, 2dc in ring, (ch2 ,3dc in ring) 3 times, ch 1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Row 2. Ch3, 2dc in sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc in next space) 3 times, 3dc in next space, ch1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Row 3. Ch3, 2dc in sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc in next space, 3dc in next sp) 3 times, 3dc in next sp, ch 1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Row 4 and 5. Ch3, 2dc in sp, 3dc in each sp along sides, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in each corner sp, (3dc, ch1, sc in top of ch3 to join) in last sp.
Joining Squares
With the yarn on your hook and holding the squares wrong side together single crochet across the edge, making sure to go through both layers. It helps keep things lined up right if you make sure not to start on one of the corners that you finished off at. Single crochet chain 2 single crochet in each of the corners. When you get back around to the beginning you can chain about 15 stitches to make a loop to hang the hot pad if you would like.
Row 3. Ch3, 2dc in sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc in next space, 3dc in next sp) 3 times, 3dc in next sp, ch 1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Joining Squares
With the yarn on your hook and holding the squares wrong side together single crochet across the edge, making sure to go through both layers. It helps keep things lined up right if you make sure not to start on one of the corners that you finished off at. Single crochet chain 2 single crochet in each of the corners. When you get back around to the beginning you can chain about 15 stitches to make a loop to hang the hot pad if you would like.
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| Ch 5, sl st to make ring |
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| Row 1 |
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| Row 2 |
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| Row 3, this is where the sides start. |
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| One side finished |
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| Finished Pot Holder |
Monday, October 3, 2011
Learning To Crochet
Choosing Your First Project:
I think the most important part of learning how to crochet is choosing the right first project. Your first project should be something small like a washcloth or coaster, at the absolute largest a scarf (scarves can be very boring to learn on because they are so long.) Making something small will keep you from getting bored, and it will allow you to toss out your mistakes without feeling wasteful. If the washcloth looks horrible toss it out, anyone asks how it is coming along look at them and say "what washcloth" : )
Along with being small the first project should be simple. A challenge is a wonderful thing, but learning something new is a challenge in it'self, keep it simple. By picking something simple you are more likely to be successful and build up your confidence, rather than picking something difficult and getting frustrated.That is why I am posting a few "beginner friendly" projects on here along with the slightly more challenging ones.
Choosing The Right Yarn:
There are so many beautiful specialty yarns out there that just call to you when your at the store. As a general rule, the fancier the yarn the harder it is to use. So avoid the super fluffy, the eyelash yarns, the "homespun" yarns and go for a nice worsted weight yarn (normal stuff like Red Heart Super Saver).
I use acrylics for blankets because it is cheaper, stain resistant, doesn't shrink and holds up very well over time. I love cottons for making washcloths, coasters and the such because it is absorbent. I haven't used wool yet because it shrinks and I think it is itchy, but they do have some wonderful wool blends out there.
If you must us a yarn that is out of the ordinary shoot for something ultra bulky that is smooth like a typical yarn, it will still be more of a challenge than worsted weight acrylic, but you won't end the day bashing your head against a wall.
Choosing The Right Hook:
Having the right hook for your project is a matter of having the right tool for the job. Are you going to try to empty a pool with a soup ladle? No, so don't try to use a hook that is too big or too small. They make everything from tiny steel hooks used for threads up to giant plastic hooks that look more like a children's toy than a crochet hook.
Your yarn should easily fit inside the curve or cutout of the hook, and should fill it at the same time. A hook that is too small may not grab the entire strand of yarn, causing ugly snags in the yarn and a lot of frustration. A hook that is too big is going to get caught on the loops and stitches you are trying to draw it though causing snags in your work, which you may have to pull out and re-do to eliminate.
If anyone has any other questions, please ask them and I will post the answers here. Odds are that if you are wondering someone else is too.
I think the most important part of learning how to crochet is choosing the right first project. Your first project should be something small like a washcloth or coaster, at the absolute largest a scarf (scarves can be very boring to learn on because they are so long.) Making something small will keep you from getting bored, and it will allow you to toss out your mistakes without feeling wasteful. If the washcloth looks horrible toss it out, anyone asks how it is coming along look at them and say "what washcloth" : )
Along with being small the first project should be simple. A challenge is a wonderful thing, but learning something new is a challenge in it'self, keep it simple. By picking something simple you are more likely to be successful and build up your confidence, rather than picking something difficult and getting frustrated.That is why I am posting a few "beginner friendly" projects on here along with the slightly more challenging ones.
Choosing The Right Yarn:
There are so many beautiful specialty yarns out there that just call to you when your at the store. As a general rule, the fancier the yarn the harder it is to use. So avoid the super fluffy, the eyelash yarns, the "homespun" yarns and go for a nice worsted weight yarn (normal stuff like Red Heart Super Saver).
I use acrylics for blankets because it is cheaper, stain resistant, doesn't shrink and holds up very well over time. I love cottons for making washcloths, coasters and the such because it is absorbent. I haven't used wool yet because it shrinks and I think it is itchy, but they do have some wonderful wool blends out there.
If you must us a yarn that is out of the ordinary shoot for something ultra bulky that is smooth like a typical yarn, it will still be more of a challenge than worsted weight acrylic, but you won't end the day bashing your head against a wall.
Choosing The Right Hook:
Having the right hook for your project is a matter of having the right tool for the job. Are you going to try to empty a pool with a soup ladle? No, so don't try to use a hook that is too big or too small. They make everything from tiny steel hooks used for threads up to giant plastic hooks that look more like a children's toy than a crochet hook.
Your yarn should easily fit inside the curve or cutout of the hook, and should fill it at the same time. A hook that is too small may not grab the entire strand of yarn, causing ugly snags in the yarn and a lot of frustration. A hook that is too big is going to get caught on the loops and stitches you are trying to draw it though causing snags in your work, which you may have to pull out and re-do to eliminate.
If anyone has any other questions, please ask them and I will post the answers here. Odds are that if you are wondering someone else is too.
Crochet Coaster Pattern *Beginner Project*
I want to help people learn how to read crochet patterns, so I am going to post the pattern as a standard crochet pattern first. Under that I will post it written out with explanations. I forgot my camera today, so I will have to add my pictures to this later.
Ch 5, sl st to form ring.
Round Crochet Coaster - Standard Pattern
Size G hook
Worsted weight crochet cotton
With the gauge I used, I ended up with a 4" round coaster
Row 1. Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), 11dc in ring, sl st in top of 3dc to join. (12dc)
Row 2. Ch 3, dc between dc, ch1, (dc in dc, dc between dc, ch1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (24dc, 12 ch1 sp)
Row 3. Sl st to ch 1 sp, ch 3 2dc in same sp, ch 1 (3dc in next sp, ch 1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (36 dc, 12 ch 1 sp)
Row 4. Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch 1 sp around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave end in.
Round Crochet Coaster - Pattern For Beginners
Chain 5, slip stitch in the first chain to make a ring
Row 1. Chain 3 (The chain 3 will count, and be used as a double crochet now and throughout the pattern), 11 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch with the top of the chain 3 to join the row. (You should have 12 double crochet in this row, including the chain 3 that is being treated as a double crochet)
Row 2. Chain 3, double crochet int he space between double crochets, chain 1, (double crochet in the next double crochet, and between double crochets, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (24 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 3. Slip stitch in the next stitch and then in the chain 1 space, chain 3 2 double crochet in the same space, chain 1 (3 double crochet in next space, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (36 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 4. Chain1, single crochet in each double crochet and in each chain one space around, slip stitch to join, fasten off and weave the yarn end into the coaster. (I like to weave ends into the single crochet edge.)
***This is my original pattern that I wrote, however I can not claim to have created the design as copied it from a picture that I found online. I merely figured out what stitches to use when and wrote it down.***
Row 2. Ch 3, dc between dc, ch1, (dc in dc, dc between dc, ch1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (24dc, 12 ch1 sp)
Row 3. Sl st to ch 1 sp, ch 3 2dc in same sp, ch 1 (3dc in next sp, ch 1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (36 dc, 12 ch 1 sp)
Row 4. Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch 1 sp around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave end in.
Round Crochet Coaster - Pattern For Beginners
Size G hook
Worsted weight crochet cotton
With the gauge I used, I ended up with a 4" round coaster
Chain 5, slip stitch in the first chain to make a ring
Row 1. Chain 3 (The chain 3 will count, and be used as a double crochet now and throughout the pattern), 11 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch with the top of the chain 3 to join the row. (You should have 12 double crochet in this row, including the chain 3 that is being treated as a double crochet)
Row 2. Chain 3, double crochet int he space between double crochets, chain 1, (double crochet in the next double crochet, and between double crochets, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (24 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 3. Slip stitch in the next stitch and then in the chain 1 space, chain 3 2 double crochet in the same space, chain 1 (3 double crochet in next space, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (36 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 4. Chain1, single crochet in each double crochet and in each chain one space around, slip stitch to join, fasten off and weave the yarn end into the coaster. (I like to weave ends into the single crochet edge.)
***This is my original pattern that I wrote, however I can not claim to have created the design as copied it from a picture that I found online. I merely figured out what stitches to use when and wrote it down.***
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Crochet Terms & Stitches
This is a list of the basic crochet terms and stitches you need to make most simple projects. I will try to come back here and add more stitches if I use new ones in projects. The term or stitch name is followed by the abbreviation in parenthesis, and then a description and instructions on how to make the stitch.
Yarn Over (yo)
This isn’t a stitch per say, but it is a common crochet term that I felt warranted a definition as it is used often in patterns and stitch definitions.
Yarning over is simply wrapping the yarn over the crochet hook so that you can pull it through loops to make a stitch.
Chain (ch)
The Chain Stitch is the most basic crochet stitch and is the foundation for almost every project.
For this stitch you simply yarn over and pull the yarn through the current loop on the hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st)
The Slip Stitch is used to join ends of rows or pieces and to move along the edge of a piece.
To work the Slip Stitch simply insert the crochet through the desired stitch or space, yarn over, and pull through all items on the hook.
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet Stitch is a very dense sturdy stitch that resists stretching. I typically will try to put at least one row of Single Crochet near the edge of an item for that reason, it really helps afghans keep their shape.
Insert the crochet hook through the desired stitch or space, yarn over, pull the yarn through the stitch or space without pulling it through the loop on the hook. Yarn over again and pull through both loops on the hook.
Double Crochet (dc)
This is a great stitch for working things up fast since (as the name implies) it is twice the size of a Single Crochet.
To work the Double Crochet yarn over then insert your hook into the desired stitch or space, yarn over again and draw the loop through the stitch or space, yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook, yarn over one more time and pull through the remaining two loops on the hook.
This isn’t a stitch per say, but it is a common crochet term that I felt warranted a definition as it is used often in patterns and stitch definitions.
Yarning over is simply wrapping the yarn over the crochet hook so that you can pull it through loops to make a stitch.
Chain (ch)
The Chain Stitch is the most basic crochet stitch and is the foundation for almost every project.
Slip Stitch (sl st)
To work the Slip Stitch simply insert the crochet through the desired stitch or space, yarn over, and pull through all items on the hook.
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet Stitch is a very dense sturdy stitch that resists stretching. I typically will try to put at least one row of Single Crochet near the edge of an item for that reason, it really helps afghans keep their shape.
Insert the crochet hook through the desired stitch or space, yarn over, pull the yarn through the stitch or space without pulling it through the loop on the hook. Yarn over again and pull through both loops on the hook.
Double Crochet (dc)
This is a great stitch for working things up fast since (as the name implies) it is twice the size of a Single Crochet.
To work the Double Crochet yarn over then insert your hook into the desired stitch or space, yarn over again and draw the loop through the stitch or space, yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook, yarn over one more time and pull through the remaining two loops on the hook.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Home Made Alfredo Sauce
This recipe is so easy and makes a rich thick sauce that has a consistency near that of peanut butter when cool.
Ingredients:
1 Stick Butter
1 Package Cream Cheese
1 cup Milk
1/3-1/2 Cup Parmesan Cheese
1 Tbsp Garlic Powder
Black Pepper to taste
Black Pepper to taste
Italian Seasoning to taste (or preferred herbs and spices)
Directions:
Melt butter in a medium sauce pan over medium to low heat.(You don’t want to scorch your sauce.) Cube Cream Cheese and add to pan when butter is about half way melted. When both butter and cheese are thoroughly melted and smooth (they won’t mix) add the Milk and Parmesan Cheese and stir with a whisk until completely blended. Add Black Pepper, Garlic, and seasoning to taste. If you would prefer a thinner sauce you can add more milk until you reach your desired consistency.
I used to be afraid of making sauces, but I finally got up the nerve to try making Alfredo sauce. I found a recipe very similar to this one and it was just so easy to make that it inspired me to try other new recipes. No one should be afraid to try something new just because they think it might be hard.
I used to be afraid of making sauces, but I finally got up the nerve to try making Alfredo sauce. I found a recipe very similar to this one and it was just so easy to make that it inspired me to try other new recipes. No one should be afraid to try something new just because they think it might be hard.
Monday, September 12, 2011
Roman Shades: Hardware Modification and No-Sew Methods
Hardware Modification:
If you would rather have your hardware board mounting horizontally than vertically there only a couple small changes that you will need to make. First, drill your pilot holes for both the screw eyes and your mounting screws on the 2" side of your hardware board. Second, instead of stapling your 1" of extra drape to the 1" side of the board wrap it around the 2" side instead. However, be sure to only wrap the 1" of fabric around, and keep it out of the way of the mounting screws so that they get wrapped up in fabric.
No-Sew Methods:
Now, I have never tried a no sew method. However, you can avoid having to sew by one using the pre-sewn strips of shade rings and two using either a heat activated fusible hem tape, or by using fabric glue to hold everything together. The downside that I see to the fusible hem tape is that it may need to be heated to a relatively high temperature, which may rule out using certain fabrics. I don't know this for a fact so definitely ask questions and check things out before you buy your fabric if you want to use this method. The downside that I have always imagined with fabric glue is being able to see the glue through the fabric, but again I have never tried it, so I guess this is another thing you would have to ask about at the craft store.
Roman Shades: Supplies and Hardware Construction
Roman Shades: Measuring and Cutting Your Fabric
Roman Shades: Hemming and Adding Rings
Roman Shades: Final Assembly
If you would rather have your hardware board mounting horizontally than vertically there only a couple small changes that you will need to make. First, drill your pilot holes for both the screw eyes and your mounting screws on the 2" side of your hardware board. Second, instead of stapling your 1" of extra drape to the 1" side of the board wrap it around the 2" side instead. However, be sure to only wrap the 1" of fabric around, and keep it out of the way of the mounting screws so that they get wrapped up in fabric.
No-Sew Methods:
Now, I have never tried a no sew method. However, you can avoid having to sew by one using the pre-sewn strips of shade rings and two using either a heat activated fusible hem tape, or by using fabric glue to hold everything together. The downside that I see to the fusible hem tape is that it may need to be heated to a relatively high temperature, which may rule out using certain fabrics. I don't know this for a fact so definitely ask questions and check things out before you buy your fabric if you want to use this method. The downside that I have always imagined with fabric glue is being able to see the glue through the fabric, but again I have never tried it, so I guess this is another thing you would have to ask about at the craft store.
Roman Shades: Supplies and Hardware Construction
Roman Shades: Measuring and Cutting Your Fabric
Roman Shades: Hemming and Adding Rings
Roman Shades: Final Assembly
Roman Shades: Final Assembly
You have assembled your hardware, sewen your hems, and completed the tedious task of sewing on all of those little rings. Now you can put it all together. Yay! You will need a staple gun for this process. (I love staple guns!)
Remember that scrap fabric I told you to save? Pull it out now and cut some rectangles out of it that are approximately 2"x3". Wrap these around the end of your hardware board and staple into place, this will hide the board if your shades end up either a hair too short, or flapping in the wind when your window is open. You will likely have to remove the eye screw that is on the end for drawing up the shades, and then screw it back in through the fabric.
Attaching The Shade To The Hardware:
Now that we have our ends hidden, you'll need to decide which side of the window you want your draw cord to be on and then staple the top of your shade onto the top edge of your board. I started by stapling each end and then the middle and added another staple in between each staple until I felt that I had enough to keep it from sagging.
Adding Pull Cords:
Now lay your shade out on a flat surface and run your cords. Rather than cutting a random length and then trimming the cords down later, I ran my cords in through the pull eye-screw first, then through the eye-screw over the rings and down through each ring, tying it to the bottom ring. On my kitchen shade I then pulled enough cord off my spool to come about half way down the shade from the pull eye-screw. Repeat with each row of rings. When all of the cords are run you can make sure they are all evenly tight (but the shade is still lose) and then tie a knot near the pull eye-screw.
With the dinning room shades I salvaged the cord condensers from the old shades and put that where the knot is. You can buy these in the craft store near the rings, if you chose to do that, only measure a couple of inches of cord past the pull eye screw. Thread your cords into one half of the cord condenser and tie a knot, then tie a pull cord into the other half of the cord condenser and screw the cord condenser together.
Finishing Touches:
Remember that scrap fabric I told you to save? Pull it out now and cut some rectangles out of it that are approximately 2"x3". Wrap these around the end of your hardware board and staple into place, this will hide the board if your shades end up either a hair too short, or flapping in the wind when your window is open. You will likely have to remove the eye screw that is on the end for drawing up the shades, and then screw it back in through the fabric.
Attaching The Shade To The Hardware:
Adding Pull Cords:
Now lay your shade out on a flat surface and run your cords. Rather than cutting a random length and then trimming the cords down later, I ran my cords in through the pull eye-screw first, then through the eye-screw over the rings and down through each ring, tying it to the bottom ring. On my kitchen shade I then pulled enough cord off my spool to come about half way down the shade from the pull eye-screw. Repeat with each row of rings. When all of the cords are run you can make sure they are all evenly tight (but the shade is still lose) and then tie a knot near the pull eye-screw.With the dinning room shades I salvaged the cord condensers from the old shades and put that where the knot is. You can buy these in the craft store near the rings, if you chose to do that, only measure a couple of inches of cord past the pull eye screw. Thread your cords into one half of the cord condenser and tie a knot, then tie a pull cord into the other half of the cord condenser and screw the cord condenser together.
Finishing Touches:
Slide your dowel into the bottom of the shade and your all set! I added a bead to the bottom of the cords for a nice touch and a little weight.
Roman Shades: Supplies and Hardware Construction
Roman Shades: Measuring and Cutting Your Fabric
Roman Shades: Hemming and Adding Rings
Roman Shades: Hardware Modification and No-Sew Methods
Roman Shades: Supplies and Hardware Construction
Roman Shades: Measuring and Cutting Your Fabric
Roman Shades: Hemming and Adding Rings
Roman Shades: Hardware Modification and No-Sew Methods
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
What Do You Want To Know?
Please leave me comments letting me know what you would like to know how to do. I have a few ideas in mind already, but your input would be greatly appreciated. It could be anything from how to sew on a button, to roasting a chicken (which I just did for the first time last weekend) or even changing your oil. If I don't know how to do it I might be willing to do the research and try, then post how to do it.
An overactive mind sees a new challenge as an adventure!
An overactive mind sees a new challenge as an adventure!
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Roman Shades: Hemming and Adding Rings
Hemming:
Once you have completed pressing over your full 2" you will want to let the fabric cool so that the press can set it. After it is cooled you will want to unfold the press, and then fold the edge of the fabric in to just about the crease. If you fold it too tight it won't want to lay nicely when you fold the whole thing in again. Then again press this fold all the way along your fabric. Fold the hem all the way closed, press one more time and pin. You should now have a nice neat hem that is ready to sew.
Sewing your hems with a machine is going to be your quickest and most accurate route to go, but if you hand sew your hem you can almost completely hide your stitches. In this case I will show how I machine stitched my hems, at a later date I will add a post and link it here showing you how to hand sew a hem. When machine sewing a hem you'll want to stay as close as possible to the fold that is on the inside of the shade, and make sure to stitch your bottom hem last, and leave the ends open so that you can slide in the dowel when you add your fabric to the hardware. The size of the stitch you use is completely up to you. I used my longest straight stitch setting on my machine so as to match the stitching that was already on the shades as well as possible. I probably would have used it anyway because my fabric is a bit heavier and may have puckered if I had used too small or too tight of a stitch.
I have found the most important step in hemming is pressing. If you don't have an iron and ironing board, buy one. When you press a hem, you know it is going to keep it's shape as you sew. I have tried to skip this step, and the results weren't pretty.
Pressing:
Preheat your iron to the appropriate setting for your fabric. Lay your fabric out on your ironing board, right side down and fold your hem over at the end, using a ruler to check the width. If you have added 2" to each side for your hem, fold the entire 2" over. Press the measured area with your iron. Don't try to eyeball this step, you'll most likely end up with uneven hems, which really show once you hang your shades. Just continue down the edge of your fabric, measuring and then pressing.
Sewing:
Sewing your hems with a machine is going to be your quickest and most accurate route to go, but if you hand sew your hem you can almost completely hide your stitches. In this case I will show how I machine stitched my hems, at a later date I will add a post and link it here showing you how to hand sew a hem. When machine sewing a hem you'll want to stay as close as possible to the fold that is on the inside of the shade, and make sure to stitch your bottom hem last, and leave the ends open so that you can slide in the dowel when you add your fabric to the hardware. The size of the stitch you use is completely up to you. I used my longest straight stitch setting on my machine so as to match the stitching that was already on the shades as well as possible. I probably would have used it anyway because my fabric is a bit heavier and may have puckered if I had used too small or too tight of a stitch.Adding The Rings:
First you need to decide how far apart you want your rings to be. If you space them out every 8", you will have 4" wide folds of fabric. For both my kitchen and dinning room shades I went with 8" spacing. For your first section up from the bottom you are going to measure up 1/2 of you spacing plus one inch.
Fold your shade with the wrong side out, measuring up your distance from the bottom (in my case 5") and press the fold with an iron. Fold the shade with the wrong side out again and measure your distance between folds (8" for me) and press again. Continue like this until you get near the top.
For your last section you will probably have some other amount of fabric left than your measurement you have been using. Don't worry. I had about 5" left on my kitchen shade and it makes a nice little ballooning when drawn up all the way, and with my dinning room shades I had about 11", the extra 3" is taken up for the most part in wrapping around the top of the board and hanging in front of it. I wouldn't add one more fold unless you will have at least 5" of fabric above the last fold.
Once you have all of your folds pressed you can measure in from the edge of the shade the same distance you have the screw eyes from the edge of the board and mark the spot with a pin, and sew your rings on. As far as I know there is no way other than hand sewing to attach the individual rings. However, you can purchase rings pre-sewn on a strip of fabric that you can sew on with sewing machine using a zipper presser foot. There are two downsides to the pre-sewn strips. First, you can't chose how far apart you want your rings to be. Second, it costs allot more than individual rings.
Monday, September 5, 2011
Roman Shades: Measuring and Cutting Your Fabric
Sorry this post won't have pictures because I spaced out and forgot to take any last night when I cut down my old curtains. When I cut the fabric for the last shade I will try to remember to take and post some pictures.
Figuring Out Your Measurements:
So you need to know what size to cut your fabric. First you will need to decide what size hem you want on the shades. I typically prefer to do an even 1" inch hem on each side (1" being the part of the hem you see), and without a lining I need to fold that same amount under so I add 2" to the measurement. This allows for a nice drape, plenty of room in the bottom hem for the dowel and a little more structure around the edges than a smaller hem would provide. (Right now I am using a smaller hem but that is because I'm re-purposing old curtains and rather than rip out the 1/2 " hem I'm using it as much as I can, and matching it on the sides I needed to cut. Because I am using a smaller hem overall, I have to add a 1" channel into my bottom hem so that I can slide my dowel in.)
So if you are going to use a 1" hem you need to add 2" to each side of the shade, so a total of 4" in each direction. Also we need to add an extra 1" of length to account for the part of the shade that is going to wrap around the top of the hardware board and be stapled into place. So that means that we are at 4" added to width and 5" added to height. (remember to use the width of your board as your starting width.)
As an example my kitchen window was 35" wide by 35.25" tall. I wanted the width of my fabric to be the 35"+4" for hem giving me 39". Height was 35.25"+5" for the hem and the board wrap giving me 40.25". So my fabric for my kitchen window needed to be cut down to 39" by 40.25"
Cutting The Fabric:
I have a hard time cutting fabric in a straight line, so I typically buy cotton. I love the ease and speed of being to measure in one direction snip the fabric and just tear it knowing it will go in a straight line. But, cotton isn't always ideal for making shades or curtains because it is so thin. Also, since I'm re-using the old curtains, I don't have a choice in fabric this time, polyester it is.
I cut a straight line in the fabric by first laying it out as flat as I could on the floor (I have no other surface in my house that I can lay a full curtain out completely flat without worrying about cutting something under the fabric). I then took my tape measure and measured from the edge over and marked my cut line with a straight pin. I moved the tape measure up about 5" and measured and pined again. I repeated this across my fabric. I then cut along from one pin to the next, pulling the pins as I went along.
Save your scraps from cutting the fabric, you will need some of them later.
Roman Shades: Supplies and Hardware
Roman Shades: Hemming and Adding Rings
Roman Shades: Final Assembly
Roman Shades: Hardware Modification and No-Sew Methods
Figuring Out Your Measurements:
So you need to know what size to cut your fabric. First you will need to decide what size hem you want on the shades. I typically prefer to do an even 1" inch hem on each side (1" being the part of the hem you see), and without a lining I need to fold that same amount under so I add 2" to the measurement. This allows for a nice drape, plenty of room in the bottom hem for the dowel and a little more structure around the edges than a smaller hem would provide. (Right now I am using a smaller hem but that is because I'm re-purposing old curtains and rather than rip out the 1/2 " hem I'm using it as much as I can, and matching it on the sides I needed to cut. Because I am using a smaller hem overall, I have to add a 1" channel into my bottom hem so that I can slide my dowel in.)
So if you are going to use a 1" hem you need to add 2" to each side of the shade, so a total of 4" in each direction. Also we need to add an extra 1" of length to account for the part of the shade that is going to wrap around the top of the hardware board and be stapled into place. So that means that we are at 4" added to width and 5" added to height. (remember to use the width of your board as your starting width.)
As an example my kitchen window was 35" wide by 35.25" tall. I wanted the width of my fabric to be the 35"+4" for hem giving me 39". Height was 35.25"+5" for the hem and the board wrap giving me 40.25". So my fabric for my kitchen window needed to be cut down to 39" by 40.25"
Cutting The Fabric:
I have a hard time cutting fabric in a straight line, so I typically buy cotton. I love the ease and speed of being to measure in one direction snip the fabric and just tear it knowing it will go in a straight line. But, cotton isn't always ideal for making shades or curtains because it is so thin. Also, since I'm re-using the old curtains, I don't have a choice in fabric this time, polyester it is.
I cut a straight line in the fabric by first laying it out as flat as I could on the floor (I have no other surface in my house that I can lay a full curtain out completely flat without worrying about cutting something under the fabric). I then took my tape measure and measured from the edge over and marked my cut line with a straight pin. I moved the tape measure up about 5" and measured and pined again. I repeated this across my fabric. I then cut along from one pin to the next, pulling the pins as I went along.
Save your scraps from cutting the fabric, you will need some of them later.
Roman Shades: Supplies and Hardware
Roman Shades: Hemming and Adding Rings
Roman Shades: Final Assembly
Roman Shades: Hardware Modification and No-Sew Methods
Sunday, September 4, 2011
Roman Shades: Supplies and Hardware Construction
Ok, so this is only my second attempt at making Roman Shades. The first one I liked the look of, but I will be making some changes to how I made it too as I work on the ones for my dinning room. so please don't take my word as law, as I am kinda making it up as I go along. I am posting this on here because everything that I can find as to directions are so vague or incomplete that I figured I might be able to helps someone (and I had a girlfriend ask me to tell her how to make shades)
Supplies:Fabric (I'm using old curtains)
Plastic Rings
Drapery Cord
Thread to Match Fabric
Normal Sewing Supplies
1/4 inch dowel
1x2 board
screw eyes
(the last two create your hardware, with this setup you won't have a cord stop. So if that bit is important to you, you"ll have to order a hardware kit)
Measuring how much fabric you'll need
Measuring how much fabric you'll need
I purchased the screw eyes, board and dowel at the hardware store, cost half as much as buying it at the craft store.
I know some people are curious as to how much the supplies cost. People make stuff themselves so that they can get them for cheaper right? Well that's not always the case. If you aren't interested in cost just skip over the next paragraph.
My supplies so far cost as such: the 1x2 board which was 8 foot long was about 75cents. The 1/4 inch dowel was in the area of 70cents. The screw eyes were about $1 for a package of 10. The package of 24 plastic rings was about $4. I chose to purchase a package of 24 yards of drapery cord because I knew I would be using that much, and it cost about $7, I believe it was in the area of 40cents a yard if purchased by the yard. The thread was $2.50 a spool. So my supplies (other than the fabric which I'm re-purposing) was about $15.95. Keep in mind that one package of cord, rings, and screw eyes will do more than one shade so the supplies cost will go down a little bit if you are making more than one. I will try to remember to figure out my total cost when I am done so that I can break it down to a per-shade cost.
Hardware Construction:
You can skip this part if you choose to order a hardware kit, or rather I should say you would follow the directions on the hardware kit. I chose to save money and build my own, even though I won't have a fancy cord stop, and will have to wrap the cord around a cup hook. The sacrifice was worth the $15-$20 savings.
Measure your window. If you want the shade to hang past the window, measure how far outside the window you want the shade to go. If you want he shade to hang inside the window, measure inside the window, but keep in mind you need somewhere to screw the 1x2 board into. I chose to hang my shades inside the window because my husband and I have gorgeous wood work in our home that I don't want to cover. Once I had that measurement I subtracted 1/2 inch, just so I know things won't fit too snugly, and the 1/2 will only leave 1/4 open space on each size.
Once you have your measurement, cut the 1x2 to length, and cut the dowel to about 1/2" shorter so that it fits nicely in the channel at the bottom on your shades. If you don't have a saw some hardware stores will cut your lumber down for you, just make sure you measure your windows before you go shopping.
Make sure the size your pilot holes correspond to the size of screws you are using. if the whole is too small the screw won't go in easily enough, and if it is too large the threads of the screw won't be able to grab the board.
Finally you can add your screw eyes to your pre-drilled holes. I screwed mine in until you couldn't see the shaft anymore. I just took the picture between getting as far as I could with my hands and starting to twist them with a pliers.Now your hardware is completed!
Roman Shades: Final Assembly
Roman Shades: Hardware Modification and No-Sew Methods
First Post Ever
Ok, so I have never had a blog before, and I don't know how long I'm going to keep this up for. But here it goes anyway.
I'm starting this blog for two reasons. The first is that I believe people (men and women) should be able to do certain things for themselves weather or not they choose to do them. Like, sewing on a button or changing our own oil. The second reason is because of the many times I have had friends or family members ask how I did something or for me to teach them how to do something.
My first project I plan on posting on here is a set of Roman Shades I will be making for our dinning room. I'm starting them today so hopefully I will have something more than this intro up on here. Then I will actually send out a link to this blog : ).
I'm starting this blog for two reasons. The first is that I believe people (men and women) should be able to do certain things for themselves weather or not they choose to do them. Like, sewing on a button or changing our own oil. The second reason is because of the many times I have had friends or family members ask how I did something or for me to teach them how to do something.
My first project I plan on posting on here is a set of Roman Shades I will be making for our dinning room. I'm starting them today so hopefully I will have something more than this intro up on here. Then I will actually send out a link to this blog : ).
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