Ok, So I haven't posted in a while because I don't have any new patterns. But I think I'm going to just start posting my projects as well so everyone can see them :)
Since my last post I have been working on making Christmas gifts for family members, I made a shrug for a wedding we went to (managed to shrink the sweater I wanted to wear in the wash), I have started an afghan for my godson's birthday, and just started working on a new winter hat for myself today. I left town for the weekend without a winter hat or sweatshirt, but luckily the yarn for the afghan matches my new winter jacket. Easy solution. I probably won't be on a computer again until Sunday night, but I will try to remember to take pictures as I go and post them ASAP.
Friday, October 28, 2011
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Granny Square Crochet Hot Pad
Definitely use cotton yarn for this project, acrylic will melt as soon as you put a scorching hot pan on it.
Ch 5, sl st to form ring
I used a size G hook, but gauge and hook size really aren't very important with this project. It's a Hot Pad, who cares if it is a little bigger or smaller than the one I made.
Granny Square Pattern (Make 2)
The Granny Square pattern can also be used to make blankets, scarves or just about anything that a person can make out of blocks. I love using it for blankets.
The Granny Square pattern can also be used to make blankets, scarves or just about anything that a person can make out of blocks. I love using it for blankets.
Row 1. Ch3, 2dc in ring, (ch2 ,3dc in ring) 3 times, ch 1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Row 2. Ch3, 2dc in sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc in next space) 3 times, 3dc in next space, ch1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Row 3. Ch3, 2dc in sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc in next space, 3dc in next sp) 3 times, 3dc in next sp, ch 1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Row 4 and 5. Ch3, 2dc in sp, 3dc in each sp along sides, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in each corner sp, (3dc, ch1, sc in top of ch3 to join) in last sp.
Joining Squares
With the yarn on your hook and holding the squares wrong side together single crochet across the edge, making sure to go through both layers. It helps keep things lined up right if you make sure not to start on one of the corners that you finished off at. Single crochet chain 2 single crochet in each of the corners. When you get back around to the beginning you can chain about 15 stitches to make a loop to hang the hot pad if you would like.
Row 3. Ch3, 2dc in sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc in next space, 3dc in next sp) 3 times, 3dc in next sp, ch 1, sc in top of ch3 to join.
Joining Squares
With the yarn on your hook and holding the squares wrong side together single crochet across the edge, making sure to go through both layers. It helps keep things lined up right if you make sure not to start on one of the corners that you finished off at. Single crochet chain 2 single crochet in each of the corners. When you get back around to the beginning you can chain about 15 stitches to make a loop to hang the hot pad if you would like.
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| Ch 5, sl st to make ring |
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| Row 1 |
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| Row 2 |
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| Row 3, this is where the sides start. |
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| One side finished |
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| Finished Pot Holder |
Monday, October 3, 2011
Learning To Crochet
Choosing Your First Project:
I think the most important part of learning how to crochet is choosing the right first project. Your first project should be something small like a washcloth or coaster, at the absolute largest a scarf (scarves can be very boring to learn on because they are so long.) Making something small will keep you from getting bored, and it will allow you to toss out your mistakes without feeling wasteful. If the washcloth looks horrible toss it out, anyone asks how it is coming along look at them and say "what washcloth" : )
Along with being small the first project should be simple. A challenge is a wonderful thing, but learning something new is a challenge in it'self, keep it simple. By picking something simple you are more likely to be successful and build up your confidence, rather than picking something difficult and getting frustrated.That is why I am posting a few "beginner friendly" projects on here along with the slightly more challenging ones.
Choosing The Right Yarn:
There are so many beautiful specialty yarns out there that just call to you when your at the store. As a general rule, the fancier the yarn the harder it is to use. So avoid the super fluffy, the eyelash yarns, the "homespun" yarns and go for a nice worsted weight yarn (normal stuff like Red Heart Super Saver).
I use acrylics for blankets because it is cheaper, stain resistant, doesn't shrink and holds up very well over time. I love cottons for making washcloths, coasters and the such because it is absorbent. I haven't used wool yet because it shrinks and I think it is itchy, but they do have some wonderful wool blends out there.
If you must us a yarn that is out of the ordinary shoot for something ultra bulky that is smooth like a typical yarn, it will still be more of a challenge than worsted weight acrylic, but you won't end the day bashing your head against a wall.
Choosing The Right Hook:
Having the right hook for your project is a matter of having the right tool for the job. Are you going to try to empty a pool with a soup ladle? No, so don't try to use a hook that is too big or too small. They make everything from tiny steel hooks used for threads up to giant plastic hooks that look more like a children's toy than a crochet hook.
Your yarn should easily fit inside the curve or cutout of the hook, and should fill it at the same time. A hook that is too small may not grab the entire strand of yarn, causing ugly snags in the yarn and a lot of frustration. A hook that is too big is going to get caught on the loops and stitches you are trying to draw it though causing snags in your work, which you may have to pull out and re-do to eliminate.
If anyone has any other questions, please ask them and I will post the answers here. Odds are that if you are wondering someone else is too.
I think the most important part of learning how to crochet is choosing the right first project. Your first project should be something small like a washcloth or coaster, at the absolute largest a scarf (scarves can be very boring to learn on because they are so long.) Making something small will keep you from getting bored, and it will allow you to toss out your mistakes without feeling wasteful. If the washcloth looks horrible toss it out, anyone asks how it is coming along look at them and say "what washcloth" : )
Along with being small the first project should be simple. A challenge is a wonderful thing, but learning something new is a challenge in it'self, keep it simple. By picking something simple you are more likely to be successful and build up your confidence, rather than picking something difficult and getting frustrated.That is why I am posting a few "beginner friendly" projects on here along with the slightly more challenging ones.
Choosing The Right Yarn:
There are so many beautiful specialty yarns out there that just call to you when your at the store. As a general rule, the fancier the yarn the harder it is to use. So avoid the super fluffy, the eyelash yarns, the "homespun" yarns and go for a nice worsted weight yarn (normal stuff like Red Heart Super Saver).
I use acrylics for blankets because it is cheaper, stain resistant, doesn't shrink and holds up very well over time. I love cottons for making washcloths, coasters and the such because it is absorbent. I haven't used wool yet because it shrinks and I think it is itchy, but they do have some wonderful wool blends out there.
If you must us a yarn that is out of the ordinary shoot for something ultra bulky that is smooth like a typical yarn, it will still be more of a challenge than worsted weight acrylic, but you won't end the day bashing your head against a wall.
Choosing The Right Hook:
Having the right hook for your project is a matter of having the right tool for the job. Are you going to try to empty a pool with a soup ladle? No, so don't try to use a hook that is too big or too small. They make everything from tiny steel hooks used for threads up to giant plastic hooks that look more like a children's toy than a crochet hook.
Your yarn should easily fit inside the curve or cutout of the hook, and should fill it at the same time. A hook that is too small may not grab the entire strand of yarn, causing ugly snags in the yarn and a lot of frustration. A hook that is too big is going to get caught on the loops and stitches you are trying to draw it though causing snags in your work, which you may have to pull out and re-do to eliminate.
If anyone has any other questions, please ask them and I will post the answers here. Odds are that if you are wondering someone else is too.
Crochet Coaster Pattern *Beginner Project*
I want to help people learn how to read crochet patterns, so I am going to post the pattern as a standard crochet pattern first. Under that I will post it written out with explanations. I forgot my camera today, so I will have to add my pictures to this later.
Ch 5, sl st to form ring.
Round Crochet Coaster - Standard Pattern
Size G hook
Worsted weight crochet cotton
With the gauge I used, I ended up with a 4" round coaster
Row 1. Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), 11dc in ring, sl st in top of 3dc to join. (12dc)
Row 2. Ch 3, dc between dc, ch1, (dc in dc, dc between dc, ch1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (24dc, 12 ch1 sp)
Row 3. Sl st to ch 1 sp, ch 3 2dc in same sp, ch 1 (3dc in next sp, ch 1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (36 dc, 12 ch 1 sp)
Row 4. Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch 1 sp around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave end in.
Round Crochet Coaster - Pattern For Beginners
Chain 5, slip stitch in the first chain to make a ring
Row 1. Chain 3 (The chain 3 will count, and be used as a double crochet now and throughout the pattern), 11 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch with the top of the chain 3 to join the row. (You should have 12 double crochet in this row, including the chain 3 that is being treated as a double crochet)
Row 2. Chain 3, double crochet int he space between double crochets, chain 1, (double crochet in the next double crochet, and between double crochets, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (24 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 3. Slip stitch in the next stitch and then in the chain 1 space, chain 3 2 double crochet in the same space, chain 1 (3 double crochet in next space, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (36 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 4. Chain1, single crochet in each double crochet and in each chain one space around, slip stitch to join, fasten off and weave the yarn end into the coaster. (I like to weave ends into the single crochet edge.)
***This is my original pattern that I wrote, however I can not claim to have created the design as copied it from a picture that I found online. I merely figured out what stitches to use when and wrote it down.***
Row 2. Ch 3, dc between dc, ch1, (dc in dc, dc between dc, ch1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (24dc, 12 ch1 sp)
Row 3. Sl st to ch 1 sp, ch 3 2dc in same sp, ch 1 (3dc in next sp, ch 1) 11 times, sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (36 dc, 12 ch 1 sp)
Row 4. Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch 1 sp around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave end in.
Round Crochet Coaster - Pattern For Beginners
Size G hook
Worsted weight crochet cotton
With the gauge I used, I ended up with a 4" round coaster
Chain 5, slip stitch in the first chain to make a ring
Row 1. Chain 3 (The chain 3 will count, and be used as a double crochet now and throughout the pattern), 11 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch with the top of the chain 3 to join the row. (You should have 12 double crochet in this row, including the chain 3 that is being treated as a double crochet)
Row 2. Chain 3, double crochet int he space between double crochets, chain 1, (double crochet in the next double crochet, and between double crochets, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (24 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 3. Slip stitch in the next stitch and then in the chain 1 space, chain 3 2 double crochet in the same space, chain 1 (3 double crochet in next space, chain 1) do what is in between the parenthesis 11 times, slip stitch in the top of the chain 3 to join. (36 double crochets and 12 chain 1 spaces in this row)
Row 4. Chain1, single crochet in each double crochet and in each chain one space around, slip stitch to join, fasten off and weave the yarn end into the coaster. (I like to weave ends into the single crochet edge.)
***This is my original pattern that I wrote, however I can not claim to have created the design as copied it from a picture that I found online. I merely figured out what stitches to use when and wrote it down.***
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